Danubius be favorable to us and the Teutons peaceful...

Such a pious saying may have stood at the beginning of a boat trip along the northern section of the most recent Austrian World Heritage Site, the Danube Limes, almost 1800 years ago. From the provincial border with Rhaetia in Passau to Zeiselmauer on the provincial border with Pannonia, we accompany a Roman merchant with his spicy thoughts on his almost 275-kilometer journey on the Danube - Danubius.

At the start of our boat trip in Boiodurum/Boiotro - Passau, we drink a strong elixir made from thymum - thyme. This is not only a popular spice for food, but when mixed with honey it helps against coughs in this harsh climate and calms the stomach in case of seasickness. It also calms the nerves after customs formalities, as not only the provincial borders of Raetia and Noricum met here, but also two internal Roman customs districts, the Illyrian and the Gallic.

The sacrificial bread with fresh laurus - laurel for Danubius seems to have reached the river god. The journey continues quietly, and the remaining libum - sacrificial bread - is a welcome snack with a view of the picturesquely situated castle of Stanacum (?) - Oberranna. The round towers of the Quadriburgus, which are over 10 m high, give us a sense of security, as they allow the garrison to overlook a long stretch of the Danube(Danubius) and thus keep an excellent eye on river traffic. Today, however, a modern protective structure secures the best-preserved Roman building in Upper Austria.

During our first stop at the small fort of Ioviacumn (?) - Schlögen, we enjoy a relaxing visit to the small balneum bath building. The warm water and the scent of lavendula - lavender in the bath are a welcome change to the strong smell of sweat from the rowers. It is hard to believe that a gold coin of Emperor Diocletian found there in 1837 was the reason for the first scientifically motivated excavations both in Upper Austria and on the Austrian section of the Danube Limes.

What a beautiful sight and what a fragrance, all full of yellow flowers of anetum - dill around the equestrian camp of Lentia - Linz. As a spice, dill is almost unbeatable for fish and wine. Hopefully Pliny is wrong about dill being harmful to the eyesight, otherwise we will be protected by a unit of blind cavalry soldiers. Military diplomas and other inscriptions document two equestrian units to control the important trade routes that connected the Vltava region with the Danube region.

Arriving in the vibrant port of Lauriacum - Enns, you not only smell the scent of over 25,000 people in and around the legionary camp of the 2nd Italic Legion stationed here, but also that from the kitchens of the countless taverns. Asa foedita - Laser is a miracle of nature. How can such a stinky weed, such a devil's dung, turn porcellum - roast pork into a true Lucullan taste sensation? The presence of an entire legion of 6,000 men and many a sip of Fallern wine lets us sleep soundly in the provincial capital.

With a view of the ruins of a (still) nameless fort in the area of St. Pantaleon-Erla at the mouth of the Aist, the captain distributes a snack heavily seasoned with saturegia - savory. This is excellent for the ship's climate, as its effect against severe flatulence is well known and makes it easier to digest the wonderfully fatty pork from the Lauriacum tavern.

Ten Roman miles (15 km) later, the fort of Adiuvense or Locus Felix - Wallsee - is enthroned. Whatever it is called, the scented ointments and oils produced here from camelina camelina are known far beyond the borders of Noricum. It is also sold in stores as an exclusive lamp oil, and even the seeds are a popular snack between meals. The fort was built in the last decades of the 1st century and rebuilt several times with the support of legio II Italica from Lauriacum, as shown by bricks stamped by the legion.

Passing many watchtowers along the wet border, we reach the cohort fort and the Arelape - Pöchlarn naval base. Here, too, the fort has been considerably extended for safety's sake. Instead of the old wooden earth fort in the south, there is now a stone fort in the north. In the adjoining vicus - Lagerdorf, fried Danube fish in a wonderful mustard sauce is very popular. The Apicius-style dish with mustard paste, vinegar, salt and honey even attracts barbarians from across the Danube.

In Favianis - Mautern, a crossroads of important trade routes from all directions secured by a fort, a wine tasting is on the agenda and the wine enriched with mastic resin runs down the throat particularly easily. The Roman "chewing gum" made from mastic resin, mixed with mint and honey, is also something special. In the last decades of Roman rule, St. Severin often withdrew to a hermitage near the vineyards - ad vineas in Mautern. He founded a monastery here, where he was originally buried before his remains were transferred to Italy.

After unloading the ships at the equestrian camp of Augustianis - Traismauer, the commander invites us to a local specialty. We enter the fort through the right gate(porta principalis dextra), today's Wienertor, in the direction of the official residence. The crayfish with menta mint is a real treat. Mint is a well-known herb with many uses in cooking and cosmetics. The connection with puleium - flea herb - is often mentioned. Various cults provided for spiritual well-being. A large building could represent a sanctuary and a votive slab could refer to the Iupiter Dolichenus cult.

From the railing we can see the fort and vicus of Asturis - Zwentendorf. Even from a distance, the lush grave decorations with the bright yellow flowers of the apius celery can be seen on the burial grounds to the south and west of the extensive vicus. Incidentally, there is only evidence of a few wall structures for the civilian settlement; for the most part there were probably simple huts, earth cellars, wells, ovens and storage pits. Celery is, of course, not just an ornamental plant, but was also used as a vegetable and spice by the occupation that gave the site its name, the cohors I Asturum, from present-day Asturias in north-western Spain.

Between the mouths of the Lesser and Greater Tulln, the ship docks at the equestrian fort of Comagenis - Tulln and delivers exotic spices for the 1000-strong equestrian unit from Commagene in the province of Syria in Asia Minor. Whether the small shrubs of mirta myrtle can be grown well here remains questionable. However, myrtle berries are in great demand as a pepper substitute. It is not known to what extent myrtle also had a special significance in sacrifices to the god Mithras, who was very popular with Roman soldiers, as the votive relief of Mithras that has been found is silent on the subject.

Our journey along the northern border of Noricum ends in Cannabiaca - Zeiselmauer. In the easternmost fort of the province, close to the border with Pannonia, we thank Danubius for the safe voyage with a sacrifice. The remaining meat of the sacrificial lamb, seasoned with corona bubula - oregano, tastes excellent. Whether it is the local dost or real oregano remains the secret of our ship's cook Plaga. The structure of the Roman fort is still visible in several places in the present-day town and offers a good insight into its size and location, as the medieval town center beautifully reflects the Roman complex.

Born in Passau, Bernhard Schlag studied archaeology and antiquity in Passau and Salzburg. In addition to many years of archaeological excavation and research work, his main focus is on teaching and museum work as a mediator, museum director and curator of many exhibitions. His appointment as a research assistant for the Upper Austrian provincial exhibition "The Return of the Legion - Roman Heritage in Upper Austria" in 2018 was followed by his teaching and tour guiding activities as head of art and cultural education at the Lauriacum Museum in Enns.